Quick Overview:

Ridgid it got it right with this one!   The Ridgid Oscillating Edge Belt Spindle sander is a neat little contraption and an affordable convenience for a small woodworking shop, or make that garage.  While it does have some design flaws, the utility and concept — as well as the price tag — are dead on.

The Ridgid Oscillating Edge Belt Spindle sander is designed for the woodworker.  It has an interchangeable shaft that can host various sizes of spindles, or take those out and it will server as a small oscillating edge sander.  Neat?  Oh yeah.  This machine takes the arm work out of edge sanding and removes machine marks with ease.

What’s Included:

Sander, bed assembly with 4″ x 24″ sanding belt, 1/2″ Sanding sleeve, 3/4″, 1″, 1-1/2″ and 2″ sanding sleeves and drums, drum washers and throat plates, operator’s manual

Ridgid, the company (link):

The company has been around since 1923 and is most well known for it’s fine line of pipe wrenches.  However, more recently the company delve into power tools and made a deal with Home Depot for distribution.  It’s well recognized orange color adorns the tools is a trademark in itself.

Design & Use:

The Ridgid Oscillating Edge Belt Spindle sander performs two functions, as stated obviously in the name — an edge belt sander and a spindle sander. As a woodworkers, you’ll use it to sand rough surfaces, create templates, clean up milling marks, and a variety of other tasks.  This is definitely not a machine for business, but around the home or small shop is a perfect fit.  With it’s toolless conversion from belt to spindle functions, you’ll find it to be no hassle at all and will actually get multiple uses out of this multi-function tool (can’t say that for most of them!).

- Finish - This is where the biggest complaint is going to come from … the finish of the “bed” itself.  It is lined with a gray colored coating, which looks nice but you’ll quickly be irritated by this.  Let me explain: When edge sanding or spindle sanding you’ll be moving boards with the larger, flat side face down (or up) on the table.  This causes friction with the table, which unforunately results in the gray coating wearing and leaving gray smudges all over the face of the board.  Though the gray is removed quickly with the touch of a hand-held sander, it’s rather annoying because it adds an extra step to each, and every board that touches the sander for any length of time.  A better design would have provided for a non-coated bed that didn’t wear, or a better quality coating.

- Power - Though only powered by a 3/8 HP, 5 Amps motor the sander easily sands both hardwoods and softwoods.  However, if you get a bit aggressive and start pushing, it will stall.  Large sanders of this type have larger motors and could handle this excess pressure, but this will will certainly slow, or stall, altogether.  But if you keep pressure steady and work with moderate pressure the sander will keep up well and provide superior results.

- Dust Collection - Using the built-in 2 1/2″ dust port  hooked up to a standard shop dust collector (they’d prefer a Ridgid one, but any will do), you will get pretty good results.  This is a messy machine making dangerous fine dust, so a vacuum is necessary.  Not only will a vacuum keep your shop clean, it will keep the sandpaper clean and less likely to clog and burn.  Overall dust collection is very good.

- Spindle Sanding - Using the round cylinders, which come in sleeve sizes of 1/2″, 3/4″, 1″, 1-1/2″, 2″, you will get fast, burn free finishes on edges, faces, contours, inside and outside curves just like they advertise — seriously.  The  The spindles move quick and the oscillating motion eliminates most of the risk for burning.

- Edge Sanding - Using the oscillating edge sander and it’s 4″ x 24″ belt is usually the way to go in my shop.  I find the curved ends to act much like a spindle, with the convenience of the flat edge.  Keep the sandpaper clean and you’ll get some mileage out of each piece.

- Accessory Storage - The carcass is designed with on-board storage for the accessories that come with the machine.  It will hold the drum, throat plates, and washers on the front, and the edge belt mechanism on the back.  This appears to be a good design, but in reality is where some of the design lacks.  The spindles sit loosely at the angle of the base and are not secured in any other way.  This means that when you move this fairly portable tool around, they fall out and roll all over the shop.  More irritating than anything else, it’s a design improvement that would help significantly (in fact, I’ve lost my smallest spindle due to this).

Purchasing Advice:

This is not the first tool any woodworker probably needs in the shop, but the time will come when you’ll find yourself in the market for an edge sander or spindle sander, or both.  When that time comes you’ll scour the market and quickly find that few offer the options of this tool in the $200 price range.  This tool has served me well and is a real pleasure to have in the shop and I would purchase it again.

Images:

The bed of the sander.  You can see the worn areas where the coating has come off (leaving marks on the wood that was in contact with it)

This is a close-up of the worn surface.

This shows the back of the machine where the edge sander attachment rests while using a spindle.

This is a close-up of the edge sander.  Looks like it’s time to clean my sandpaper!

This shows the orange plastic that wills the space unused by the spindle, and beneath where the dust is placed in contact with the vacuum.

With the plate removed, you can see how, and where, dust builds up.  Dust collection is rather good with this machine, but some fine dust will cake inside.

Here you can see where the vacuum connects.

The table tilts 0-48 degrees with detents at most popular angles (0, 15, 22.5, 30, 45).  The soft-coated knobs make the adjustment a breeze.

Here you can see the on-board storage.  The washers and drum adapters fit securely, but the spindles themselves are held in only with gravity and will pop out.

Quick Overview:

The Incra T-Rule is a series of metal rulers with precise slots and holes located throughout the length of the rule in 1/64, 1/32 and 1/16 increments.  Combine one of these highly precise rules with a mechanical pencil and accuracy is nearly fool-proof.  The old adage “measure twice, cut once” still applies, but now you’ll know that mark you made for the cut location is actually dead-on.

What’s Included:

Packed in a simple cardboard-backed package, the Incra rules fly solo.  You’ll receive the rule assembled.  It’s made of a metal rule, two thumb screws and a small piece of t-track.

Incra, the company (link):

Not much information could be found about the company.  More will be made available as it is found.

Design & Use:

Simple elegance, the t-rule has become a favorite of mine.  Many times I walked right by it not taking a second look until a friend of mine was bragging about his.  I took the rule in hand along with a mechanical pencil and began to mark-out a tenon.  Previous to this product, most of my woodworking marks were made with a standard #2 pencil and my Starrett combination square — which is highly accurate, however  the pencil and human involved add to the inaccuracy.

With the Incra T-Rule and a human armed with a mechnical pencil, the chance of being inaccurate due to measure becomes significanly less.  This is because of the T-Rules design.  It provides small slots and holes throughout its length at every measurement down to 1/64″.

To use the T-Rule, simple hold the red T-track to the edge of the board, find the measure you want to mark, instead the writing end of the mechanical pencil in the slot/hole & mark.  You can also pull the T-Rule parallel to draw a longer, precise line.

Purchasing Advice:

If you are doing any kind of highly accurate woodworking, such as furniture making, Buy one.  Depending on the type of work you do, you may need a shorter one or a longer one … but trust me, you’ll find this tool indispensable for accurate marking.  Instead of making marks directly off the reference of another rule and saying to yourself “just cut a smidge to the right of that mark and you’ll be close” … use the T-Rule to make the measurement and simply cut to it!  It’s makes you more accurate, confident, and comfortable.

Images:

Marks are made with a mechanical pencil.

The measurement scale is clear to read and understand.

Marks are even available on the end of the rule.  This could be used for height adjustments (think blade height or router bit height)

The t-track and thumb screws that attach the rule.

Quick Overview:

It’s a drill.  It’s a driver.  Functional, yes.  Overall impression … not so much.  Here’s why: battery & power stink.

This Ryobi drill was cheap ($$).  Unfortunately, it is cheap (quality).  The battery charger is slow, the life of the battery is poor, and the power is just not there.

Ryobi does an excellent job and getting into the entry-level market and some of my experiences with their tools have been favorable, but not this one.  The drill was inadequate in every regard for a woodworking shop or serious DIYer.  And with the unreliable battery, I didn’t even feel comfortable giving it to my wife.

Maybe if the battery had been better would I rate it better, but it is what it is.

What’s Included:

The drill, a 7.2v rechargeable battery, and a simple plug-n-wire slow charger.

Ryobi, the company (link):

Directly from their website:

Ryobi Limited is a worldwide manufacturer of die castings, printing equipment, power tools and builders’ hardware, with group companies in Japan as well as the United States, Europe and China.

Design & Use:

This entry-level cordless drill is aimed at the infrequent home user rather than the woodworker or DIYer.  The overall design is impressive at the price point, and the finish is excellent.  Ryobi is good at tool design and usually puts the “little” features in their tools that some of the other companies just miss.

Unfortunately use was limited by the battery life.  Under normal use in my shop I was lucky to get 10 minutes of use before the drill could hardly turn.  From there you’d be looking at hours before the battery was ready again … unrealistic.

Purchasing Advice:

Spend a couple more bucks on something else.

Images:

Top View

Side View

The Trigger

The Chuck

The Battery (bottom)

Quick Overview:

Doing something new and different with a regular old razor knife is a bit tricky … because too much, well, it usually is “too much”.  Sometimes leaving well enough alone is the right thing to do.  However, CH Hanson has done well here as they re-thought the razor knife and actually made it more versatile.

Short and sweet … this razor knife holds not one, but two razors on each end.  Both can be standard razors so that when one gets dull you don’t miss a beat and just “flip” to the other side.  Or, each end can hold a different type of blade — one end a standard blades, and the other end a curved blade.

Anything that helps me work safer, and quicker, seems like a good thing to me.  This tool accomplishes both of those and is built well to handle the rugged environment a razor knife will usually be exposed to.  Thumbs up to the “Flip Knife”.

What’s Included:

Besides the plastic marketing package … you’ll get the Flip Knife along with one straight blade and one curved blade.

CH Hanson, the company (link):

Directly from their website:

Headquartered near Chicago, Illinois, the C. H. Hanson Company has been a family-owned and managed operation since 1866. The company has demonstrated throughout its history, the ability to innovate both products and merchandising methods.

C. H. Hanson is quick to respond to changing market needs with new products, new merchandising and new packaging. The company is strategically focused on significant product expansion through partnerships with the end-user to create tools that make job site tasks easier, faster, and safer.

Design & Use:

What don’t you use a razor knife for?  Honestly, I pick mine up most every day and go through blades faster than cereal — or so it seems.  At this point I own about five razor knives.  Not because I have to, but because I always seem to temporarily lose the one when I need it, and thus decided to keep a couple more than necessary around the house.

A razor knife can be used to cut carpet, paper, plastic, thin metals, … you name it.  At its most basic form a razor knife is a handle for a razor blade that keeps the your hands and fingers away from the blade, and makes it more manageable to use for any period of time.

The Flip Knife has a couple of good things going for it.  (1) It can hold two blades of the same type, or different types, (2) the blade changes are as easy as it gets, and (3) it incorporates simple safety features to help protect the user (for example, you cannot expose the blades on both ends at the same time).

The not-so-good things really have nothing do with the knife itself, but rather a bit of personal preference.  (1) The packaging is that horrible, indestructible plastic that is sealed on every side and nearly impossible to get into and (2) it only comes with two blades.  As I see it the packaging should be easier to open — in fact, I had to get another razor knife just to open this razor knife.  As for the blades, I think it would be a common courtesy if a small package of blades were included so that a first-time buyer wouldn’t get stuck at home with only the two included blades and have to make a return trip to the hardware store.

WARNING: Cutting seems to be the most common type of injury in the shop.  The damage is often done with razors, utility knives, or scissors due to improper use.  So be careful when using these tools.  They don’t have a motor, don’t cost a ton of money and are in every household … but trust me, then will still hurt you just as badly.

Purchasing Advice:

If you use a razor knife frequently, then the Flip Knife should be on your radar.  You’ll benefit from the two blades ready to go at a moments notice — so much so that the tool will probably pay for itself in time savings on the first job.

If you are an occasional user, or in the market for a razor knife … why not.  There are many options out there from cheapo imports to higher end gimmick designs.  You could go for either, but why when you can land in the middle with a solid, safe, two-blade system.

Images:

The Package

Having to use one razor knife to get to the other …

Curved Blade Installed

Straight Knife Installed

Quick and easy blade changes without opening the unit

The red button is the quick release for the blade

Size comparison to a regular razor knife

One lacking feature the Flip Knife is missing that was found on another knife I own is the on-board quick access blade storage … which is really nice.

Luckily the Flip Knife didn’t get into all of the gimmicks though … like this near useless measuring tape on another razor knife I own.

Quick Overview:

A common sight in the carving section of any woodworking store, the Wood Is Good Co urethane mallet catches most woodworker’s eyes — possibly for it’s elegance, but most likely because of the catchy company name burnt into the top of each mallet.  For years I passed this by as a “gimmick” that I could live without … until it was recommended by a friend and fellow artisan.

Wood is Good Co has done the craftsman a favor by combining a simple, elegant design along with a superior advancement in technology (the urethane) to create a friendly product that can take a beating in the shop.  This mallet scores well in my book.

What’s Included:

No box, no bag … well, nothing more than the mallet and a little label to identify it.

Wood Is Good Co, the company (link):

Straight from their website:

The  “Wood is Good Company”  has been manufacturing quality products for 20 years.  It is a division of Midwest Woodworkers, a retail store stocking large supplies of quality hardwoods, machines, hand tools, and other fine products for woodworkers, carvers, and turners.

Design & Use:

A urethane mallet is primarily used for pounding on tools that work on wood — it itself doesn’t actually do the work.  However, the user of the mallet can be (and in my shop is) used to actually do some mallet-to-wood work driving in wooden plugs and snugging together joints.

This mallet has a presumably Birch handle, though the manufacturer only claims it to be a “New England Hardwoods” handle (I assume this means whatever wood they have on hand).  It’s smooth to the touch and extremely comfortable in your hand.  The mallet reviewed is the 20oz model and is a bit larger in size, but for me seemingly a perfect fit.  The urethane is dense and handles the abuse — so well in fact, I started to think where else I could use that stuff.  My one complaint is a ridge that runs the perimeter of the urethane, probably from the molding process to create the mallet.  The entire mallet head is smooth, then this abrupt ridge lines the top.  If you try to use this in direct contact with wood it will mar the surface as if it were metal — not pretty.  However, that’s can be removed with some sandpaper (or a quick turn on the lathe, if you have one).

Overall this mallet performed better than expected.  My ol’ rubber mallet is probably going to be put to bed for a while, as I’m converting to this style.  It’s more comfortable to hold, comes in a variety of weights, and has a cool burned-in “Wood is Good” name on the end which always stirs up conversation in the shop.

Purchasing Advice:

Not sure that this is a “run out and get it” necessity for the general woodworker or DIYer, but I assume it’s a near must for a carver.  For those of use that are not carvers, I think this should be on the wish list though.  It’s an easy tool to pass by, and one you could do without … but why?  After a little shopping online you’ll probably find one for about $25-$30 — and at that price I’d recommend putting one on the workbench of most wood shops.

Other images:

Wood is Good Urethane Mallet (top view)

Wood is Good Urethane Mallet (bottom view)

The Ridge (top)

Wixley digital angle gauge and digital protractor(tm) not sure about most folks, but, I have a difficult time purchasing tools. The wife seems to think I have enough while I tend to disagree. Additionally, I have over the years had to make many sacrifices for quality because of price. I would love to have a $3,500 12″ Cabinet Makers Table Saw, but just can not justify one.

Well, I have some good news for you. Regardless of whether you have or are going to purchase a table saw, one thing I do know.

You need to get yourself a Wixley digital Protractor and a Wixley digital angle meter. These two items turn even an El Cheapo table saw (like my 15 yr old Craftsman) into a precision cutting tool!

Once you have one each of these gauges, you can forget about the tiny gaps in your joints because the miter guage or the blade angle were off a little bit. These are turning out to be some of the most valuable tools in my shop, yet, they are inexpensive (especially when compared to the ever increasing cost of wood if you make a mistake).

Wixley makes several other gauges which might also be helpful. As and example, the Wixley digital height guage might be just the thing for doing precision routing or for setting saw blade height. I can not say enough about their stuff! My protractor and angle meter have been right on the money for accuracy and are available at a great price. I have been wondering if there is a negative to these gauges, and I just can not seem to come up with one, so, do yourself a favor and order one each!

I promise, you will be pleased with your investment if you do any cutting on a table saw. I have no connection with Wixley, and receive no compensation for sharing the above opinion.

As with most of my tools, I can not afford what I would really like.  What I wanted was a smooth running, stable, reliable lathe which would handle both large and small items.  I went through a lot of research as well as cost trade off analysis before reaching my decision, went to several woodworking shows, and talked with other folks who do turning.  I finally settled on the Jet 1642-2 lathe.

I’ve owned it now for about 6 months and I’m very pleased with it!  I love the variable speed feature!  It has many uses!

I have one other lathe, and considered getting two lathes instead of just the one Jet.  I wanted one lathe for small work (like pens etc.) and another with a 14” to 16” swing over the bed.  Well, after using a small lathe for a bit, and comparing it to my new Jet, it seems the larger lathes have less runout.  I use a Stronghold chuck and with #1 Jaws, I no longer need to worry about a small lathe.  The Jet seems to be bang on the money for small work.  The height is convenient for me, and the lathe seems to be very stable with large blocks mounted.

The design of the lathe handles/handle location, and the operation all seem very efficient, easy to use and a pleasure.  Not everything is rosy however.  I have found that the accessories available from Jet are limited.  Fortunately, the spindle (1 ¼”), tailstock (MT2), tool rest mount (1”) are all common and therefore, about any accessory desired is available from other vendors.

I have been asked on more than one occasion, “Do you think it is worth purchasing a lathe with variable speed control given the extra cost?”  Well, I guess everyone must answer that one by their own needs, but for me, I’ve learned two things: purchase the best tool you can afford, and still get the functionality you need, and then consider what not having the feature would cost you in time and flexibility.  For me, I had to save for about 18 months before I could get what I both “wanted, and needed” which are two different things.

I am not a professional turner, but I think the Jet would well serve either a hobbyist or a professional.  One thing I will mention……The Jet headstock does not swivel!  For some turners, this may be an issue, but for me, it is an advantage.  I like being able to slide the headstock and tailstock to the end of the bed for bowl turning.  I had thought that a swivel head would be more functional, but then realized: a swivel head only causes the turner to have more fixtures because of the new head angle.  If you swivel the head for example, you must have a tool rest which reaches out to the workpiece and around to the front.  By sliding the headstock and tailstock to the end of the bed, these extra tools are not required therefore leaving more money for other goodies!  Plus, at some point, the radius of the workpiece is larger than the swing over the bed.  Well, all I can say is……..Then you will need a self supporting/free standing tool rest.  However, this is true for a swivel head lathe as well……therefore, unless you are going to be turning huge pieces all the time, the Jet is still your best bet.  If it should be that the latter is the case, then what you need is a large lathe designed specifically for doing large bowls.

I am please with my Jet, and have no regrets about not going to a more expensive lathe or inexpensive lathe.  This one meets all my work requirements well.  I have turned vases, bowls, chair and table legs, platters and other items all with no issues.

I am currently doing segmented turning and use the lathe regularly.  My previous lathe just sits over on the side of my shop relegated to waiting patiently for me to have a second turning setup to make while I have one mounted on the Jet.  In the last 6 months, that has not happened and I may create a little shop space by selling it.  I can always turn that old lathe into some neato exotic wood to turn on my Jet!

Slick indeed. You’ve probably never heard of the AngLevel, yet alone seen it. It’s a rather new invention (yes, people still invent stuff these days) that was thought-up right here in the good ol’ USA. One of the inventors of this product (it’s a two-brother team) actually sent me this tool and asked me to review it. It’s not in mainstream distribution yet (but I think they are working on that), however they do sell it through some smaller outlets and via their website.

So what is it? Well, in short it’s a combination gadget that replaces several tools on your toolbelt — specifically a speed square, torpedo level, and t-bevel. However, the AngLevel is designed with much more thought and once you use it you start to find new functions in can perform (even a bottle opener when you need a cold one when the sun beats you down).

The AngLevel is built well. The stainless steel metal components are solid and will handle a beating. The other parts are a fiberglass material that should handle anything you dish out on the job site.

A lot of thought was put into this little tool that makes using it a bit of fun — and practical. For instance, the bubble levels that are integrated in the design are probably the most susceptible component to break — and since these are easily found at the home centers, the design of the AngLevel allows you to remove & replace them (no need to buy a whole new tool!). Also, the AngLevel has many built-in design elements that take the guess work out. An example of one of these features are the pitch lines for roof work … it’s all on the AngLevel, simple align the steel rule with the mark and viola … you’re a pro! (okay, maybe not a pro but damn good!).

Overall, I really enjoyed using the AngLevel. One it was cool to have a tool no one has seen in my back pocket and two it was just cool to have so much tool in ONE POCKET! Better believe I’ll be giving these as gifts come the holidays!

The AngLevel sells for $39.99. Pick one up here.

Here’s a snippet from their website that outlines better the true capabilities of it:

This tool can be used as a 9-inch up to 16-inch torpedo level, also can be used for 16-inch on center step-off. Some of the other features include, 1/8-inch and 1/4-inch pitch (commonly used for drainage). There are 1 thru 20 pitch lines on the body of tool and it display’s the degree at the same time with a degree dial that ranges from 0° to 90°degrees in 5°degree increments. There is a pitch-to-degree conversion table, for example a 10-pitch = 40°degrees, or 12-pitch = 45°degrees. The stainless steel ruler on the AngLevel™ tool spins 360° degrees and includes a compass feature. The compass feature enables the user to make circles from 2-inches to 15-inches in ½ inch increments. In addition the stainless steel ruler is 7-inches long etched in 1/16” inch increments. The ruler markings are ascending and descending on each side. This tool increases the efficiency of the tradesman because it simplifies the use of commonly used tools, many functions can be performed at one time with less effort and less equipment. The tool can make a less experienced or advanced tradesman more valuable and confident as it simplifies hard tasks and angle measurements that would be difficult and time consuming with other existing tools. The tool is 1.5″ thick (thickness of a standard wood/steel 2x lumber, like a “2×4 stud”) and is 3/4”, which is half of the stud thickness, which helps finding the center of the stud or the opposite edge of the 2x lumber or steel.

On the good side:

• The Shop Fox has equal or more power compared to other 12” disc sanders within its price range.
• The Sanding table tilt angle and distance from the sanding face is fairly easily adjusted.
• The dust port seems to work great when a shop vac is attached.
• The unit is fairly quiet.
• The miter table is flat.

On the downside:

• The miter slot in the table is not parallel to the in-board edge of the table, so if you want to set the miter slot parallel to the disc face, you must use either a jig or a dial indicator.
• The miter slot will NOT accept a standard 3/8” x ¾” miter slide.
• The Disc face to which the sanding disc attaches is not flat.

Either the motor has excessive runout, or the sanding disc face is bent causing the disc face to wobble back and forth/in and out (this is in the horizontal plane-towards and away from the sanding table) so that only the high point of the sanding surface actually cuts (unless a bunch of force is applied, and then it cuts unevenly). When combining the wobble, and the not flat sanding face, it makes it extremely difficult/impossible to do any setup for a precision angle (within 0.1 – 0.3+/- deg or 0.6 degrees total) to be sanded. Even if using a digital protractor, the wobble makes the angular setup within o.3 degree impossible.

The Chalk Hog is used for marking lines at the “snap” of a string.

This is a large marking tool — thus the “Hog” in the name — and is made of a seemingly durable plastic case. A few metal parts accompany the tool — found in the sharpener (for a carpenters pencil), the reel handle, and end of line hook. Everything appears to be built solid for a hard day on the job site, or in the shop.

So simple, yet so beautiful. Who doesn’t enjoy poppin’ blue lines across some fresh plywood just before plunking down a dozen nails? Or snappin’ a stripe across timbers to mark your cuts before grabbing for the worm drive saw? The new Chalk Hog 100 is a step up for an ordinary chalk line tool. It has a finer line that definitely snaps clean, and reportedly uses much less chalk per snap — thus saving you money long term. In building a barn, we put this tool to use time and time again to mark our cuts, nail paths, and more. The fun of “blue line’in” quickly became the best part of the job … and not only because the act of snappin’ the line was fun, but also because it was so easy to use. The end of chalk was no where near in site (considering it holds a full 8oz bottom), the quick reel returned the line with little effort, and the built-in pencil sharpener was an added convenience.

If you are buying your first chalk line tool — get this one. It has all the features of the best at a better price. If you already have a chalk line and rarely use it, then you won’t need another and this might not be worth it to you. If you chalk often … then it’s a no brainer. It will pay for itself in chalk saved (it uses less) and you’ll no longer have to fill the tool with chalk … you just screw on a new 8oz bottle when you’re out!

Manufactured by CH Hanson, the Chalk Hog retails for around $15 - $20.