The Renaissance Micro-Crystaline Wax Polish is available in several sizes.  The one I use of the 200 ml tin (pictured).  Renaissance has a different smell (not bad, just different) and consistency that the other waxes I’ve used (primary being car waxes based with carnuba).  It’s solid, but soft and when applied wipes on AND OFF with ease.  Apparently it’s a “safe” finish and is used on many museum and gallery pieces.

Like most waxes, it will protect your tools from water (and thus rust), as well as finger prints.  It provides for a very slick surface, which is especially nice on a tablesaw, jointer or planer to name a few.  I’ve even begun to put this product on my hand planes.  One nice thing about this wax over traditional waxes is just a dab will go a long way.  It has a thinner consistency than others, and seems to spread easier.

Renaissance is SAFE on the following:
Wood; raw & finished. Leather, Parchment & Paper. Metal; Silver, Silverplate, Gold, Copper & Copper Alloys (Bronze, Brass, Tin, Zinc, German Silver, Nickel), Lead & Pewter, Iron & Iron Alloys, Tin & Tin Alloys. Damascus; Stone, Marble, Onyx, Limestone, Granite, Brick, Tile, Terrazzo, Obsidian, Alabaster; Gems, Glass, Porcelain, Holloware, Bone, Ivory, Horn, Shell & Mother-of-Pearl, Gutta Percha, Dammars; Gilding & Gold Leaf, Patinas. Enamel, Lacquer, Japanning, Cloute, Pose d’Or, Pique Point, Varnish, Marbleizing, Stains & Artificial Graining. Plastics, Formicas, Paints, Polyvinyl Acetates, Esters of Polymethyacrylic, Polycyclohexanones, Fiberglas Epoxy Resins, and much more! (From http://www.woodfinishsupply.com/RenWax.html)

A little history:
How, RENAISSANCE Wax, the “Perfect Wax” was created: Prior to 1950, the only polishes available were based on beeswax and carnuba wax. Unfortunately, these natural, saponifiable products could cause damage when acids arose spontaneously through oxidation or hydrolysis. To solve the problem, a consortium of international conservationists directed a scientist from the British Museum to conduct research and find the “perfect wax.” When he could not find any that met their exacting standards, he created a new wax in his laboratory. The revolutionary formula he invented is a semi-synthetic microcrystalline fossil-origin wax entirely free of, damaging acids.
It remains chemically neutral and is therefore completely safe, even on vulnerable surfaces.
The British Museum approved manufacture for its own use and for distribution to the public. That “perfect wax” is now available internationally under the name RENAISSANCE WAX.  (From http://www.woodfinishsupply.com/RenWax.html)

While I still grab for my carnuba from time to time, I do prefer the Renaissance.  The biggest reason for choosing it is the ease of removal, and how long it lasts.  I’ve used it around my shop on just about everything for several years, and I still have half the container left — unbelieveable.  It does come at a higher price point, so it won’t be for everyone — but if you want to treat your tools and yourself to some of the best quality wax … then you should give it a try.  I’ve seen smaller containers, so you could test the water for about $10 or so.  The 200 ml container usually runs closer to $20.

Note: Of course, this wax could be used as a finish on a project (virtually any project in fact, it’s a “safe” wax”), but I’ve yet to do it so I can’t comment on it.

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”One of the most important aspects of finishes, I believe, is that they invite me to touch, to caress, and to take pleasure in the wood surface.” Sam Maloof.

Available by the quart, the containers display some of Maloof’s iconic rocking chairs as eye candy.  Personally, I was in the process of building a Maloof-style rocker when I came across these finishes and decide to give them a try (afterall, following the master’s lead should be a good idea, right?)

These are oil-based finishes and thus are fairly straight-forward to apply (read: easy!).  The process involves soaking the wood with the oil blend, and then soon thereafter (minutes?), using a series of dry rags to get as much of it as you can back off the surface of the wood.  This short pentration time allows the wood to absorb some of the oil, and harden within the wood itself.  Take a break between coats of about a day to let the oil dry a bit, then repeat.  Depending on the project, and desired sheen, you’ll probably need several coats.  In my circumstance, I used four generous coats of the poly/oil, topped by two coats of the oil/wax.  Each application was dried with rags, and lightly buffed on the final pass (to reveal the sheen).  The end result is a stunning finish that is soft to the touch and draws attention.  Once the last coat is applied, however, the oil will still be drying.  Depending on the weather conditions and such, it may take several weeks for the oil to completely dry and the smell to go away (primarily a smell of tung oil).

These finishes aren’t just for rocking chairs, of course.  Anywhere else you would use a penetrating oil-based finish, these could be used … from headboards to side tables, chairs to changing tables.

In the end, I believe I made the right decision in following Maloof’s lead and using the finishes under his name.  The application was easy, the room for error was extremely low, and the final product is beautiful.  In the future, I think I’ll give these a try on something else …

Poly/Oil Finish
From the Rockler website: A custom blend of polyurethane varnish and natural oils developed by Sam Maloof to beautifully finish his finest pieces. Ideal for use on furniture, cabinets and millwork. Enlivens wood grain and adds warmth to it’s color. Gives your project the look of hand rubbed satin finish in half the time it takes using pumice and rottenstone. Consider using Sam Maloof’s Oil/Wax for the final coat to complete the look.

Oil/Wax Finish
From the Rockler website: A blend of oils and waxes used as a final coat over the Sam Maloof’s Poly/Oil finish to create a soft hand rubbed appearance while enlivening the wood character. Sam recommends using this topcoat on fine pieces that won’t be exposed to heat or moisture. Applied with a cloth.

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As I’ve mentioned in other reviews … I’m no chemist, but this stuff is amazing.  They claim it to be “Safe” right on the label, and I’ve used it many times with ease and no protective suites of anything of that nature.  It does stink — no getting around that — but for that minor drawback it works amazingly well.  Simply spray on a light coat, and a gentle wipe with a paper towel is enough to remove annoying surface rust.  Bigger rust problems aren’t too bad either … again, a light coat and then grab a scouring pad.

Not only does this product work amazingly well, it also seems to “treat” the surface and reduces future rust problems.  I use it regularly on the cast iron tops of larger tools, as well as the steel components (that notoriously find moisture so that they can rust!)

Rust Free may not be NewToolReviews typical tool, but it’s one of the best to have around.  It makes rust removal easy … so I spend less time removing rust, and more time on projects.  Highly recommended.

From the manufacturer:

Rust Free removes rust and stains on steel, cast iron, fiberglass, chrome, tile, porcelain, vinyl and cloth. This fast-acting rust removal product removes rust from areas that are impractical to soak in rust removal solutions. To use, just wet the surface and allow it to penetrate for up to a minute and then wipe dry. If the area is heavily rusted, repeat process and use an abrasive pad to remove the rust. If any rust remains just repeat process until it is completely free of rust.

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I picked up Empire Blade Saver at Klingspor in a small package deal for less than $7 during a sale.  Honestly, it sat on my shelf for over a year before I even looked at it.  Then, when my usual blade gunk cleaner ran out I had no choice but to give it a try.  Now, can someone remind me why I waited so long?  Blade Saver was not only less harsh (very little odor, doesn’t sting my hands!), it also worked about 500% better and 500% faster than what I was using.  Amazing.

Now on my second bottle of Blade Saver, I’ve used it to clean tablesaw blades, planer blades, bandsaw blades, mitersaw blades, turning tools … heck, I even used it to clean the guts of a used machine I purchased that was coated with pine resin.  It’s not failed me yet.

Empire Blade Saver “The pitch eliminator” comes in a convienent spray bottle, so I typically just spray it directly on whatever it is that I need to remove gunk (pitch, resin, build-up, whatever-you-call-it) from my tools.  Then, I simply follow up with a soft paper towel.  For more serious gunk issues, I may pull out the scour pad, or safer yet a brass-wire brush.  So, needless to say I’m happy with the Empire Blade Saver product … it did what it said it would do, and it did it well.  Highly Recommended.

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